I'm starting a new series of Rolling Armchair Travel pieces from Palma de Mallorca! Yes, Rolling Armchair. It means I'm kind of sitting down - while moving! I will show you Palma and Mallorca from a sedentary tourist/semi-active resident's point of view, without the risk-taking.
Cala Major is a kind of poorer country cousin of Palma. There is no Old Town, no cathedral; not much in terms of tourist attractions at all. But the little town, about 20 minutes away by bus from downtown Palma, is often the first port of call for tourists as well as people dipping their first tentative toe into The Big Move to Mallorca. Full of flats for rent for single people, with a decent amount of not super-expensive hotels, central but not too, with fantastic views of the Mediterranean and a decent nightlife without being Death-Boozing Airways Central, Cala Major is non-flashy Mallorca in a nutshell.
It was the non-flashiness that attracted the Norwegian cook Jan-Owe Jensen to buy a property and start Cala Major's first early morning café, Pan & Cocina (Bread and kitchen) here. The first thing you notice is that he loves dogs! He even welcomes them inside the sparkling clean, classic café-looking café. He is one of the few if not the only café owner in Palma baking his own bread, and that and the rather larger portions than is the norm in Palma, makes me go back and back. That, and to talk to the jovial and welcoming Jensen, naturally. Oh, and his superb coffee, strong as hell.
And unlike the typical local restaurants and cafés, he also serves healthy stuff like home made granola, egg and bacon (yes it's healthy!) and avocado this and that. I have to say though, his bocadillo (toasted baguette) with York ham and egg and tomato paste is not for the fearful! Six hours after eating it you will still feel full. Which gives you so much more spare time to explore and check out non food-related things! Or ride a bicycle to the other side of the island.
Cala Major Beach around 9AM
Koldbrann the dog loves Pan & Cocina and Uncle Jan-Owe!
Pan & Cocina