Here we go again

Corona_Restaurant_closed Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Mallorca, where I have lived the last two years, has just been put on lockdown due to Covid 19, also known as Wuhan corona virus. I wish I had written a diary when I lived in Hong Kong during the SARS epidemic in 2003 and 2004, but there you go. At the time we weren't quarantined; people were going about their business, travelling on the underground and working. But they were all wearing surgical masks. The whole city looked like a gigantic convention for dentists. I tried one once, for one day, and they were damned uncomfortable. And many people were wearing them on their heads, under their chins, in their hands. The main thing was, they probably thought, that they did wear masks! 

Chinese shop keeper in Palma

Now, apparently, the corona virus is on the retreat both in Hong Kong and mainland China, mainly because the people there knew what to do. With a sigh (and in China's case, with armed government officials stationed outside their house), they put on their masks again, bought up all the toilet paper and went back to life as normal. Poor Hong Kong! This came hot on the heels of six months of riots and upheavals, deserted streets and shopping malls. 

Corona empty streets

From today, the people of Mallorca are supposed to stay home for the next 15 days, except for going to work and going shopping. And did they ever! My local supermarket had long lines and staff was only allowing small groups of people in at a time. I therefore legged it all the way to the other side of Palma and the Chinese shop, to stock up on lotus root and some instant noodles. The thing is, we don't have to 'stock up'. The delivery lines are not down. Shops will stay open and will have goods in them. 

But when people don't know, they panic. And then they panic buy. 

Palma, although it's not yet the tourist season, was unseasonally empty. This kind of cheered me, because it shows that people have social conscience. Unlike me! 

I went to three Chinese shops, and all the staff were wearing masks. They even advertised with this on the shop door: "The staff of this shop is wearing masks for your safety!" So I will go there in future. You just never know! Oh, and they have better food. 

Keep calm and carry on! We will be fine. But this thing will change the whole world forever, that's for damned sure. 


Pin it

Celebrating the year of the Rat in style

CNY-rat-year-of-the-rat Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Chinese New Year has been and gone, and what a hoot it was! The year of the charming and opportunistic Rat has begun. The year kicked off with China and Hong Kong going into lockdown over a flu. Being a Rat, I smell one. How can China benefit from this, I ask self? Oh! Yes. By using the crisis to ramp up the already intrusive Social Credit system, where everything you do and say is recorded, and points taken off your social credit for jaywalking, spitting, talking about the poor little government behind its back. They are now taking money off the streets to "clean" it, but I'd be very surprised if it goes back into circulation. When people use cards, it's so much easier to control their every move. 

CNY-table-4 Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

But you know what? I do miss China, a lot. So when Chinese New Year rolls around, I feel like cooking Chinese food and lots of it! This year 18 people turned up to celebrate what will surely be the best year in history for the whole world. Yes including the Chinese, if they can only be like the Rat and see this as an opportunity, as their government is already doing. 

CNY-table-3 Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Meanwhile, all the ingredients for a fantastic Sichuan meal (Sichuan is a province in China famous for its peppercorns and chillies) are available here in Palma de Mallorca. So until this flu dies down (pun intended) I will just cook for myself - and for you! 

CNY-table-1 Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Screw the flu!  Doobie doo! 


Use the time you are hiding from the virus constructively


Palma-cathedral-boats-morning Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

This is the famous cathedral of Palma de Mallorca seen through a forest of masts. Palma Bay early in the morning is truly a magnificent sight. And this morning I was savouring it again, not on a dog walk this time, but on my way to the very cathedral itself. Because today is one of the only two days each year that the following happens:

Palma-Cathedral-rose-window Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

The sun shines through the window on one side of the cathedral to form the reflection of a rose window right underneath the window on the other side. Pretty cool, and special. I knew there would be a lot of people but didn't expect the line to get into the cathedral to stretch through five streets and all the way to the not nearby Plaza Cort. But I stuck it out, through the second hand smoke and the boredom. That's right, I have no inner life, so find just standing and waiting quite boring excruciatingly painful mentally. 

Inside the cathedral were every single local resident of Palma plus most of the tourists. it's a spacious cathedral so that wasn't a problem, and also after a lifetime in Hong Kong

Hong-Kong,-Kowloon,-Mong-Kok,-Overview Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

crowds don't really faze me. 

Then someone sneezed. Loudly. Right next to me. And suddenly, for no reason at all, I started thinking about Hong Kong, China, crowds... and a certain virus. SARS. That particular rigmarole started with a geezer sneezing in a lift. 

A cathedral isn't a lift of course, and no one outside China that we know of has died of the latest virus named after a beer. But still. Perhaps it's better to stay away from the largest crowds for a while? 

Poor Hong Kong people! As if the last seven months of protests and riots aren't enough, now this, with shops running out of food and schools closing indefinitely. Haven't they had enough? 

But if you live in Hong Kong, or are otherwise confined to your room, why not take this time to learn Cantonese the Natural Way - from a Norwegian - on Skype? I'm giving a discount to everyone affected by the latest product to come out of China. 



No es justo! 

Chinese New Year has come and gone and it's officially the year of the Rat.

CNY Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's PenAndWok.comRats are supposed to be resourceful, opportunistic and charming. I am a Rat. And I have looked everywhere, but nowhere does it say: Rats are particularly unlucky in matters related to ... printers. 

Excruciatingly long story marginally shorter: I bought a Canon printer in Hong Kong in 2011, and it was wonderful. Colours, super fast, the works. When I moved to Spain early 2018, naturally I took it with me. Imagine my shock, nay, devastation, when the man in the ink shop told me I couldn't buy new ink, because "Asian Canons were different" (or something.) Kind friends brought me new ink from Hong Kong, but clearly this situation couldn't continue. Suddenly I remembered I am modern now, and got a whole bunch of cartridges on eBay. Sorted! For life!

Except the printer stopped working pretty much the same day as the cartridges arrived. Only eight years old! Bastard. A friend came to fix it, but before I knew it he had coaxed me into a new printer, also Canon, online, from Palma's famous tech shop MediaMarkt. 

Ever since that day, I have been plagued with problems. The new printer is so European and modern and techno that it is hyper sensitive, its built-in software  is absolutely crap; for example, instead of being able to set it to printing four of the same image on one page, I have to make four copies of the same image on my desktop and import them one by one. The old printer was perfect in every way; the new one is like living with a little temperamental teenaged madam, high maintenance, irresponsible, ungrateful and never looking to grow out of it. But it can print black and white documents, especially if I restart my desktop between bouts. Oh, and just before Chinese New Year I actually managed to make it print the menu for the New Year festivities. 

CHINESE_NEW_YEAR_2020 Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

But only just. Because now the ink in the new printer was running out fast. I had 2,000 fresh cartridges for the old, perfect printer now dead, and zero for the new. Then I remembered: The ink shop with the haughty employee! Leg it leg it, only 40 minutes' walk. "No, we don't have that ink." What??? But I bought my printer here in town. "Oh yes, but it's too new. We don't have that kind of ink yet." That's when I exclaimed NO ES JUSTO!!! Which means: It's not fair! It really isn't. 

So yeah, happy new year to everyone for the second time in a month. I don't know what conclusion I am to draw from this. Don't buy new stuff? 

But talking about Chinese: Did I mention you can take Cantonese lessons from me, on Skype? I'm also working on a Spanish course called Learn Spanish Without Really Trying, which i'm drawing and writing but my partner H will be teaching, but to print out the pages for her students - guess what... I need ink! NO ES JUSTO! 

There_Is_A_Shark Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's




Catholic Priest blesses Birds, Vegans 

Sant-Antoni-Owl Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Do you have a pet owl that you want blessed by a Catholic priest? Then Palma de Mallorca is the place for you. 

When last Friday I went to chronicle the fabled festival of Sant Antoni, patron saint of animals, I expected to see dogs, cats, possibly goldfish. Owls and falcons, not so much. But there they were, perched on their owner's arms and glaring. The owl, in particular, looked positively psychotic and ready to kill.

“Is he... afraid?” I asked the owner.

“No, I’m the one who’s afraid!” was the answer.

Sant-Antoni-falcon Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

I would be too! Those claws could dig straight through my arm, and the beak looked like it could take off someone's head. The falcons look bored, more than anything. Well, I thought they looked bored, but actually, I don’t really know what a bored bird looks like. Probably much the same as an un-bored bird.

 I also didn't expect three different sets of musicians; drummers, a big marching band and two traditional Mallorquin musicians. What joy! Oh, Mallorca is such a paradise in so many ways.  

Sant-Antoni-Little-drummer-boy- Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Sant-Antoni-trubadours Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

The procession started outside Palma's mighty cathedral La Seu amid much excitement. It was supposed to begin at 10, and I was afraid to have missed it all when I got there at 10:40m, but fortunately it hadn't even started yet.  About 11:15 the music started up, and a sea of dogs, birds (of prey) and proud owners wound its way through the narrow, medieval streets of the Old Town to San Miguel Church. That’s right, San Miguel, or Sant Miquel, was actually a saint, not just a beer. A priest was waiting together with a statue of Sant Antoni, blessing every beast as it padded by. 

San-Antoni-moving-around Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

Some vegans also joined in, with a poster showing pigs, cows and chickens saying: "We also deserve to live." I asked them if I was allowed to have some eggs at least (for I too think that animals deserve to live... in a dignified way, until it's time to humanely slaughter them) but NO, came the categorical answer. Not even an egg? Count me out. 

But oh, what a beautiful morning in the stunning city of Palma, and what a lovely tradition. I think all countries should have a day for blessing animals.

Sant-Antoni-dogs-on-parade Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's

 The next  day I saw a report about a place in China where people had forced a pig to bungee jump 70 metres before sending it to the slaughterhouse.

San-Antoni-with-pig Pen & Wok Blog - - Cecilie's